There are three levels of solution, depending on how paranoid you are feeling at the moment... Level 1 paranoia: (cheap or no-cost DIY solutions) - Use a good quality branded skewer from one of the major manufacturers - make sure that it has good serrations and that the lever action feels smooth and has a definite “clunk” as you close it.
- Fit the skewer with the lever on the left side. This means that the entire skewer has to turn, instead of just the nut, making visual checks easier.
- Close the lever as hard as you can manage by hand - it should leave a definite imprint in your palm (if you use your palm). If you don’t have that much hand strength, lay the bike on it’s side and stand on the lever, but don’t go OTT.
- Make sure that the lever is not touching anything when it’s closed - it should not be touching the fork leg, for example. I know it’s not as neat, but closing the skewer so it points horizontally backwards is the best way.
- Use a releasable cable tie to sttach the lever to the fork leg, to stop it flipping open.
Level 2 paranoia: (cheap low-hassle aftermarket solutions) - Several manufacturers are producing (or have on the drawing board) various types of locking skewer. These could be a good idea, assuming that they lock with enough force, as they’d prevent any vibration loosening.
- Use a solid axle nutted hub instead. The clamping force of a 10mm nut is much higher than that of a QR skewer, which is why track bikes use them.
Level 3 paranoia: (serious bombproof solutions) - Use a bolt-through front hub. This requires new forks and a new wheel, but is totally solid.
- Several manufacturers are introducing forks with forward-facing dropouts - this means that the ejection force is no longer pushing the axle out of the slot.
- Use forks with the caliper on the front of the right fork leg. This alters the angle of the force so it is no longer a problem. This would require a custom fork, of course.
Personally, I’m a level 1 person... | 
